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Over the years so many clients have come asking me if I can hem jeans like the store.

I’ve had people suggest that I cut off the original hem and just sew it back on a few inches up, as if that would keep the store look. I’ve tried so hard not to laugh at that because obviously the clients are well intentioned but have no knowledge of sewing or of how much extra bulk you would create by doing such a thing.

But yes I would say I can make a hem pretty close to the store.

I fold up the desired hem and use a hot iron to put a crease in the hem so I won’t lose my measurement while I am working. (For a measuring tool I use my six inch ruler)

If you are shortening the jeans 2 inches or more you can cut the orignial hem off.

If you are shortening the jeans less than this you may need to take a seam ripper to take down the seam allowance in the original hem so you can use that allowance in your new hem. In the picture above I am using applique scissors because the offset handle and short blade help with accuracy. 

The thick seam running down the inside leg of jeans can cause some trouble if you try to hem over a double thickness of it. To avoid this problem notch out the seam as shown above.

Thread your machine with a top stitching thread or a heavier weight thread. I use Gutterman/Mara 70 but this is not available on amazon. Instead you can use this jean thread by coats and clark.

I sewed this pair of jeans on my basic singer sewing machine rather than my industrial machine so that you would have confidence in your own home sewing machine.

With a home sewing machine the thread does jam sometimes but be patient and make sure you are using a big enough needle. You should be using a size 16 or 18.

When the thread jams it can cause the thread to break on the top as well.

But you can fix this with hand sewing needles and a few hand stitches.

When you are finished look at how closely the new hem resembles to store hem. This is a job well done.

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For other alterations on jeans check out the post on how to make a wide leg narrow, and how to add darts to the waist band.