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Below are basic instructions for replacing a jacket zipper, if you would like more complete instructions, enroll in my virtual video class. Or the PDF downloadable tutorial

1. Begin by removing the old zipper. To do this you have to carefully separate the layers around the zipper using a seam ripper. Pay close attention as you take the zipper out, taking note of the layers and details of the jacket’s construction because you will be putting the new zipper in exactly in the same place.

This particular jacket has 4 pieces of fabric sewn into the zipper.

• The outer fabric of the jacket
• A thin strip of matching fabric in front of the zipper for aesthetics
• The orange lining fabric behind the zipper
• Another wider strip of black attached to the lining which serves as protection from the wind.

2. Once the broken zipper is removed straighten out one edge of the jacket with the outer side facing up. Pull the seam allowance out flat and pin the new zipper in face down. (I recommend using YKK zippers as a replacement which are easily available on amazon.) As you start pinning make sure to start at the bottom. Preferably place the end of the new zipper in the exact location of the former one. On some jackets the zipper does not go to the full length of the jacket.

On this jacket I had to make sure the thin black strip between the outer fabric and the zipper was secured with the pins. (If you do not feel comfortable sewing with pins or have trouble with the zipper moving around hand baste. Then remove pins and stitch on the machine.) Use a zipper foot on your machine, a size 16 or 18 needle, and heavy weight thread.

The zipper on this jacket is longer than needed which is not a problem. Trim the zipper about an inch longer than the jacket and place the extra zipper behind and into the lining.

4. Now the front is going to be stitched to the back. Notice in this image you see the extra black fabric behind the zipper which is the wind guard. Again I pin before I sew or you can baste . Also when sewing all the layers together you will need to switch your zipper foot for a regular foot.

5. Congratulations. One side of the zipper is finished! Now do the same to the other side. Before you stitch the back to the other side make sure that the jacket lines up when it is zipped. You don’t want to have to have to redo your work (trust me! I have done it a few too many times!)

I prefer using an industrial machine like a Juki for this type of project because the thickness of a jacket may be a little heavy for a home machine.